VINITALY 2025 Unrivaled Global Palates Converge.

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Malay Kumar Rout

in routmalay
The founder of WSCI
(Wine & Spirits Club of India)

The morning mist still clung to Verona’s terracotta rooftops as dawn broke over Veronafiere on April 6. By sunrise, the exhibition complex pulsed with energy, winemakers from Italy’s 20 regions bustling to prepare for the 57th edition of Vinitaly – the world’s most comprehensive wine event. The scent of freshly sanded oak barrels mingled with the rich aroma of espresso as Stefano Girelli, a third-generation producer from Trentino, adjusted the lighting above his family’s prized sparkling wines. “This is our Olympic Games,” he remarked, polishing a magnum of 2015 vintage. “Where else could we meet buyers from Mumbai to Minneapolis in one place?”

The numbers confirmed Vinitaly’s unrivaled status: 97,000 professional attendees including 32,000 international buyers from 130 countries, with exhibition space spanning 12 pavilions housing 4,000 producers. The diversity astonished veteran attendees – from Alpine wineries pouring crisp Kerner from 1,000-meter elevations to Sicilian estates showcasing sun-drenched Nero d’Avola, representing Italy’s range of indigenous varieties. Each product had a story of place, tradition and passion.
Climate Solutions Uncorked
Climate change discussions dominated the opening hours. In the Piedmont consortium’s tasting room, Marco Parusso displayed satellite images comparing his family’s Barolo vineyards in 1985 versus today. “The growing season starts two weeks earlier now,” he explained, pouring a surprisingly delicate 2023 Nebbiolo harvested in mid-September rather than the traditional October window. Nearby, University of Milan researchers presented data showing how rising temperatures are altering phenolic development, with sugar levels spiking before tannins achieve optimal ripeness.
Global Palates Converge
The American presence remained robust despite political headwinds, with over 3,000 U.S. buyers navigating the pavilions. Chicago importer Michael O’Connor paused mid-tasting at a Puglian stand. “Five years ago, I couldn’t give Primitivo away,” he laughed. “Now my sommelier clients demand single-vineyard expressions.” The UK contingent surged 30 percent, with London wine merchant Sarah Chen noting: “Brexit paperwork finally sorted, our clients are rediscovering Italy’s depth beyond Chianti.”

Emerging markets made striking impressions throughout the pavilions. Among them, a well-established Nigerian delegation deepened their engagement with Tuscan producers, building on relationships first formed at ProWein 2022. Lagos importer Adeola Oke of Terroir Africa examined a Brunello’s label while discussing Nigeria’s evolving distribution channels. “What began as curiosity about Super Tuscans has evolved into structured demand,” noted Oke, whose portfolio now represents 42 Italian estates according to Nigeria’s import registry. Their focused tastings reflected concrete growth – ICE Agency data shows Nigeria’s Italian wine imports growing 18 percent year-on-year, the fastest rate in Sub-Saharan Africa.
Roots & Renaissance: Generations in Dialogue 
The most poignant moment came in the Friuli pavilion, where nonagenarian winemaker Livio Felluga made his 50th consecutive Vinitaly appearance. His weathered hands trembled slightly as he poured a golden-hued Ribolla Gialla. “My first Vinitaly in 1974 had maybe 200 exhibitors,” he recalled. “We poured from fiasco straw baskets because nobody believed Italian wine deserved glass.” Nearby, his granddaughter previewed an experimental amphora-aged Pinot Grigio – symbolizing how Vinitaly bridges generations while driving innovation.

A Japanese buyer negotiated allocations of rare Etna reds while a Brazilian sommelier conducted Instagram Live tastings.
In the bustling food court, Michelin-starred chefs demonstrated pairings with indigenous grapes, like tortellini in brodo with Lambrusco’s bright acidity. The energy confirmed Vinitaly’s unique role: equal parts trade fair, cultural festival, and strategic think tank for the global wine industry’s future.
The Asian Ascent
The climate adaptation pavilion became an unexpected epicenter of activity on Vinitaly’s second morning. Sicilian winemaker Arianna Occhipinti stood before a 3D topographic model of Mount Etna, explaining her radical elevation strategy. “We’ve planted Carricante at 850 meters, altitudes considered absurd for quality wine when I started,” she said, pouring 2024 white with striking mineral tension. Thermal imaging displayed a 5°C temperature differential between her high-altitude vineyards and the valley floors below.

Nearby, Tuscan producers demonstrated their controversial embrace of irrigation. “These aren’t your grandfather’s Chianti vineyards,” said Giovanni Ricasoli, showing moisture sensors networked with weather satellites. His team’s AI system calculates precise water needs down to individual vines – delivering as little as 10ml/hour through subcutaneous tubing. The resulting 2023 Gran Selezione showed remarkable freshness despite Tuscany’s record drought.
The scientific program showcased compelling research bridging ancient wisdom and modern enology. Dr. Matteo Bordini’s team from the University of Bologna presented their 2024 study published in the Journal of Archaeological Science, which used CT scanning and microscopic analysis to examine Roman amphorae from the 1st century AD. Their findings confirmed how the clay’s natural porosity influences micro-oxygenation – a quality modern winemakers are rediscovering through qvevri fermentation. During a well-attended tasting session, participants compared amphora-aged Verdicchio with steel-fermented counterparts, observing the former’s distinctive honeyed texture that mirrored characteristics found in ancient wine residues.

The Asian market breakout sessions drew standing-room crowds, reflecting what ICE Agency data confirms as a 27 percent increase in Italian wine imports to China since 2021. Shanghai-based importer Li Wei presented case studies showing Italian wines gaining market share among younger consumers.
‘Millennials account for 62 percent of our premium Italian purchases,’ he noted, displaying sales figures that revealed Amarone’s 300 percent growth after educational campaigns about appassimento.
While France remains China’s top wine supplier with €1.2 billion in annual imports, Italy’s €430 million footprint shows particular strength in major cities – a trend SommJournal Asia attributes to ‘narrative-driven consumption’ among professionals under 40.
India’s presence signaled remarkable potential. Mumbai-based Rajiv Malhotra detailed how Italian wine education programs are creating sophisticated consumers. “Our wine clubs now host blind tastings comparing Barolo crus,” he said, showing photos of Delhi events where attendees identified six Italian white varieties correctly. Yet obstacles remain daunting – import duties reaching 150 percent force creative solutions like partnering with luxury hotels for by-the-glass programs.
Next-Gen Visions
The North American pavilion hummed with strategic planning as importers adapted to shifting global trade dynamics. Chicago-based importer David Goldstein of Vinum Importers shared his proactive approach: “We’re diversifying our portfolio with more small-production wines from Campania and Sicily – not because of current tariffs, but to build relationships before any potential market shifts.” His team’s intensive tasting schedule – sampling over 300 wines on day one – reflected what Wine Business Monthly recently identified as a broader trend of American buyers seeking value in Italy’s southern regions. This strategic focus appears validated by the strong early bookings for September’s Vinitaly USA Chicago, where Southern Italian producers have reserved 40 percent more space than in 2024 according to event organizers.
The third morning of Vinitaly revealed the event’s beating heart – the next generation of winemakers reinventing Italian viticulture. In Hall 7, 31-year-old Beatrice Allegrini unveiled her radical “Project X” – a Sangiovese aged in acacia rather than traditional oak. “The wood’s natural sweetness lifts the grape’s austerity without masking its character,” she explained, pouring a shockingly vibrant 2023 that drew murmurs of approval from veteran critics. Nearby, a collective of under-40 producers from Italy’s overlooked regions hosted packed tastings of wines made from grapes like Valle d’Aosta’s Petit Rouge and Molise’s Tintilia, varieties virtually unknown internationally but perfectly adapted to changing climates.
The “Italia Minore” stand became an unexpected pilgrimage site. Marco De Bartoli, a fourth-generation Sicilian winemaker, poured his Grillo from 80-year-old alberello vines. “These bush-trained survivors weathered climate shifts that killed more ‘sophisticated’ trellised vines,” he noted, his wine’s saline intensity silencing the crowd. Beside him, Sardinian producer Antonella Corda presented a Cannonau fermented in terracotta, its wild strawberry notes a revelation to Korean buyers taking furious notes.
Technology’s role in tradition emerged as a recurring theme. In the innovation pavilion, a team from the University of Milan demonstrated blockchain authentication for premium wines – each bottle tagged with NFC chips containing harvest data, fermentation details, and even vineyard weather records. “Transparency builds value,” explained researcher Sofia Bianchi as buyers scanned a Barolo bottle to reveal its entire production journey.
A Toast to Tomorrow
The sports and wine crossover events drew equal parts curiosity and enthusiasm. At the “Celebrating Sport” restaurant, Olympic skier Alberto Tomba hosted a lunch pairing his favorite TrentoDOC sparkling wines with dishes from his native Bologna.
“Champagne gets all the victory toasts,” he laughed, “but our Italian bubbles deserve the podium.” Nearby, a virtual reality installation lets visitors experience vineyard work through the seasons – from winter pruning to harvest – with legendary winemakers narrating each step.
Vinitaly’s tourism initiatives signaled wine’s growing role in Italian cultural exports. The debut “Vinitaly Travel” pavilion connected wineries with luxury tour operators, showcasing experiences like truffle hunting in Piedmont followed by vertical tastings in medieval castles. “Enotourism now accounts for 18 percent of our revenue,” admitted a Mont epulciano producer while arranging a private helicopter tour for Hong Kong collectors.
The historical perspective came full circle when 91-year-old Angelo Gaja made a surprise appearance at his family’s stand. Surveying the bustling pavilion, the legendary Barbaresco producer reflected: “My first Vinitaly in 1961 had
maybe 200 exhibitors pouring from demijohns. Today the world comes to Verona not just to buy Italian wine, but to unders tand Italian soul.” His words hung in the air as a group of young Japanese sommeliers carefully tasted his 2016 Barbaresco, their reverence for the occasion palpable.
As the afternoon faded into evening, the action shifted to Verona’s historic center for “Vinitaly and the City.” 50,000 tasting tickets had sold out, with crowds spilling from Renaissance palazzos into candlelit courtyards. At the Romanesque church of San Fermo, a projection-mapped show traced Italy’s wine history across its ancient walls. Nearby, Michelin-starred chefs created bite-sized pairings for rare vintages. The energy confirmed Vinitaly’s unique duality, equally comfortable discussing blockchain technology in modern exhibition halls as it was celebrating centuries-old traditions in Verona’s timeless streets.
The final business day opened with sobering economic discussions at the institutional pavilion. European Commissioner Christophe Hansen presented data showing Italian wine exports reaching €7.8 billion in 2024 – a 6 percent increase despite global headwinds.
“These numbers represent thousands of family businesses and cultural heritage,” he stressed before talks on the looming U.S. tariff threat. Nearby, ICE Agency president Matteo Zoppas revealed strategies for emerging markets, including a new export credit guarantee program for shipments to India and Nigeria.
The American situation remained complex. Chicago importer Michael Goldstein shared his contingency plans: “We’re restructuring portfolios to absorb potential 25 percent duties, focusing on higher-margin artisanal producers.” .
His spreadsheet showed clients willing to pay premiums for limited-edition bottlings with compelling stories – like a Sardinian Vermentino aged in submerged amphorae. The upcoming Vinitaly USA Chicago event (October 5-6) has already secured participation from 35 states, with Southern Italian regions taking 40 percent more space than in 2024.
Asian market breakthroughs dominated afternoon sessions. Chinese importer Li Wei presented astonishing data: Italy surpassed France in premium still-wine imports to Shanghai for the first time, driven by younger consumers’ preference for “discoverable” wines over established brands.
His case study showed how educational videos about Amarone’s appassimento process boosted sales by 300 percent in six months. Meanwhile, Japanese buyers focused on niche categories – a Tokyo sommelier purchased an entire lot of Timorasso after tasting its almond-scented complexity.
The academic program yielded startling research. A University of Florence team presented climate models predicting optimal future vineyard zones – suggesting Barolo production may shift northward within decades. Their soil analysis demonstrated how ancient glacial deposits in Alto Piemonte create natural water reservoirs, making these areas increasingly valuable. Another study from the University of Bologna revealed how specific clay compositions in amphorae alter wine chemistry – findings that could revolutionize natural winemaking.
The next generation’s vision became tangible at the “Under 40” pavilion. Beatrice Allegrini’s acacia-aged Sangiovese drew queues, while Marco De Bartoli’s Sicilian Grillo challenged perceptions of Mediterranean whites. Most striking was the “Wine Hackathon” where young enologists collaborated with tech startups – one team developing AI-powered optical sorting that identifies optimal grape clusters using spectral analysis, another creating biodegradable NFC tags for bottle authentication.
As dusk fell, the event’s cultural dimensions blossomed. At Verona’s Roman arena, a thousand guests attended “Opera Among the Vines”, pairing rare vintages with aria performances projected onto suspende d vineyard trellises. The evening’s showstopper came when 91-year-old Angelo Gaja joined young jazz musicians for an improvisational “wine and music” dialogue, his commentary on Barbaresco’s evolution blending effortlessly with saxophone riffs.
What began as a simple trade fair has become Italy’s most sophisticated cultural export. The impact was undeniable: beyond the immediate financial gains, Vinitaly fuels significant annual export growth. But more importantly, it had once again proven wine’s unique power to bridge generations, cultures, and economies – all within Verona’s ancient walls
The Human Element: Vinitaly’s Enduring Legacy The final hours of Vinitaly 2025 revealed the event’s true impact beyond commerce. In quiet corners of the pavilions, handshake deals sealed generational transitions – a Sicilian father introducing his daughter to their American importer, a Tuscan winemaker passing his notebook of vineyard secrets to his enologist son. These human moments, more than any statistic, explained Vinitaly’s enduring magic.
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The closing press conference delivered staggering figures: 97,000 attendees (33 percent international), including 32,000 foreign buyers from 130 countries. The breakdown showed fascinating trends. While Chinese attendance dipped 20 percent due to economic factors, the UK surged 30 percent .
Regional performances highlighted shifting tastes: France’s 30 percent increase reflected new interest in southern Italian varieties, while Japan’s 10 percent growth focused on premium whites.
President Federico Bricolo emphasized Vinitaly’s institutional role. “For the first time, two European Commissioners joined our discussions,” he noted, referencing productive talks on tariff mitigation and funding sustainability efforts for the upcoming years .
Minister of Agriculture Francesco Lollobrigida announced new EU support for climate adaptation, including €50 million for vineyard relocation projects.
The economic impact extended far beyond the fairgrounds. Verona’s hotels reported 98 percent occupancy, with luxury properties like Due Torri hosting tastings in frescoed Renaissance halls. Restaurants citywide saw wine sales triple – Antica Bottega del Vin o served 1,200 bottles of Amarone alone. The concurrent Vinitaly and the City event attracted 50,000 consumers, its ticket sales matching 2024 despite one fewer day.
As the sun sets over Verona, the true measure of Vinitaly’s success became clear. In nearby piazzas, American importers debated vintages with Japanese sommeliers. At Cafe Dante, a Nigerian buyer sketched distribution plans with a Sicilian producer and along Via Mazzini, the last stragglers compared notes over Aperol spritzes, their conversations blending a dozen languages but sharing one passion. Verona became the global heartbeat of wine, where deals were inked, friendships fermented and the future of the industry swirled gently in every glass.
Angelo Gaja’s words from the previous evening resonated: “Wine is the liquid memory of a people.”
Vinitaly 2025 proved this truth again, demonstrating how Italy’s winemakers honor tradition while embracing change. From climate-smart viticulture to blockchain authentication, from rediscovered ancient varieties to revolutionary aging techniques, the event captured an industry in dynamic evolution.
The final numbers show Italian wine exports reached a record €7.7B in 2023, with steady growth expected in 2024. But more importantly, Vinitaly strengthened the human connections that make those numbers possible, the friendships between producers and importers, the mentorships between veterans and newcomers and the shared moments of discovery when a first sip reveals something extraordinary.
As the lights dimmed at Veronafiere’s pavilions, staff began preparing for Vinitaly 2026 (April 12-15). The work continues, the conversations endure and the world keeps returning to Verona each spring – because while wine may be made in vineyards, its future is shaped here, in these halls where passion and profession unite.